A selection of stories from The New Yorker’s archive
“The true journey,” Italo Calvino wrote, “implies a complete change of nutrition, a digesting of the visited country—its fauna and flora and its culture (not only the different culinary practices and condiments but the different implements used to grind the flour or stir the pot).” In this week’s issue of the magazine—the Food and Travel issue—our writers take Calvino’s dictum as a guide. They trek to a remote Himalayan glacier; sip Oaxacan mezcal distilled in a raw cowhide; try the tasting menu at a locavore restaurant in La Paz, twelve thousand feet above sea level; and browse the country fair that takes over Paris each spring, revealing an unexpected microcosm of France.
In this weekend’s newsletter, meanwhile, we’ve set out a buffet of classic New Yorker pieces. In the spirit of Calvino, you might think of these stories as inquiries into food and memory (a chef reinvents his lost Turkish food heritage), food and wanderlust (an elusive Szechuan cook leads devotees on a chase through suburban America), food and family (an Englishwoman traces her relatives’ culinary diaspora in the Middle East), and food and the city (a Tijuana chef tries to revive his troubled town). Oh, and there’s chocolate for dessert—if you don’t mind riding along to the Bahian rain forest to get it.