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Southern Curls & Pearls

Southern Curls & Pearls


Travel Guide: Capri, Italy

Posted: 14 Jun 2017 12:53 PM PDT


Out of all the places we traveled to in Italy, there was one place that really, truly, deeply struck a chord with me: Capri. A rocky island located off the bay of Naples, there is no other place like it in the world, and no other island quite as glamorous. Long before today's current celebrities were arriving by helicopter, the Romans were already populating Capri, making it their own holiday spot. And it's easy to see why. From the rocky cliffs rising out of the ocean to the glamorous beach clubs with their blue-and-white umbrellas, to the neat little rows of designer shops with lush flowers spilling out onto the sidewalk - it instantly became my favorite place on Earth. I cried lots of tears when we left. Even now, after I've been home for several weeks, there are even times when I'll feel bouts of homesickness just thinking about Capri. 

Anyway, let's begin!


HOW TO GET TO CAPRI
Capri is an island, so it's only accessible by sea (or by helicopter if you're a celebrity!). Ferries depart from Naples and Sorrento, and during the summer months there are also ferry routes departing from Positano, Salerno, Ischia and Amalfi. We caught the ferry from Sorrento to Capri - it was a 25-minute ride and was around 20 euros. Once you arrive at the port of Capri, Marina Grande, you then have the option of getting on the funicular that takes you to the top of the island (Capri Town - where most of the restaurants, hotels and shops are located) or getting a taxi. The funicular is definitely the better option - although it gets a little crowded, it's a fast ride and tickets cost around 2 euros each.

our room at Hotel La Scalinatella 

WHERE TO STAY IN CAPRI
I would highly recommend splurging on a hotel in Capri - they are less expensive than the hotels in Ravello, but offer the same glamour and even more charm. We stayed at Hotel La Scalinatella in Capri and it was my favorite hotel of the entire trip! It's so hard to explain, but immediately upon arrival I felt this sense of peace and calm come over me... it felt like we were finally "home." The hotel is situated away from the hustle and noise of tourists, and when you finally walk into the hotel's doors all you can do is exhale and say "wow." The rooms are incredible: very large and comfortable with plenty of closet space, marble bathrooms and amazing beds (and all of the rooms have this gorgeous blue tile print that makes you smile every time you look at it!). More than anything, the service really stood out. Upon arrival to Marina Grande, there was someone from the hotel to meet us - they handed over our funicular tickets (which they had already bought), and told us that they were taking care of the luggage and it would be delivered to our room in an hour. (When we left it was the same deal - they took care of all of our luggage, pre-arranged our tickets on the ferry and someone was waiting for us at the port with our ferry tickets.) Antonino, at the front desk, knew us by name and gave us tons and tons of amazing recommendations for photo locations, restaurants, and more - we had never met anyone so nice and helpful! We also loved Genarro, he served us breakfast every morning (also knew us by name) and by the time we left, he felt like an old friend. (He told us that many people who stay at La Scalinatella have been coming for YEARS and they stay for up to a month at a time because they love it so much.) Another thing we loved about Hotel La Scalinatella was the free breakfast every morning, served on the terrace overlooking the ocean. It was magical. I have never in my life been so impressed with a hotel... I am making plans to bring my fiancé back next year to show him how amazing it is!!

One morning we ordered room service to our room & ate on the balcony!

 WHERE TO EAT IN CAPRI
Breakfast/Lunch
  • La Scalinatella: We really enjoyed eating breakfast at our hotel each morning, especially with the beautiful view of the ocean in the background! Pastries, muffins, eggs, fresh fruit and bacon  (and realllllly good coffee) were available every morning. Plus they served mini jars of Nutella (which I may or may not have snuck into my suitcase back home).
  • Buonocore Gelateria: We stopped here several times for gelato, pastries and a quick lunch. They make AMAZING mini pizzas topped with mozzarella cheese for only 3 euros, and the pastries and desserts are only 1 euro each. Everything is made fresh on the premises. There's usually a line for the gelato so be prepared to wait - especially if it's hot outside!
  • La Fontelina Beach Club: We didn't get the chance to eat here (it was closed due to the rough waters while we were there) but we heard AMAZING things about the food at this beach club - especially the seafood fettuccine and octopus salad. Make plans to lay out all day underneath the blue-and-white umbrellas and then grab lunch whenever you're ready. Definitely make reservations for the beach club ahead of time, though - it gets very crowded during the summer months.
  • Anywhere in the town's square, Piazza Umberto: There are a number of restaurants in Capri Town's main square, the perfect place to take a seat and enjoy a leisurely lunch (while keeping an eye out for celebrities passing by, of course). There are lanes full of designer stores surrounding the square that could easily lure you in for the rest of the day.
Dinner
  • Da Paolino Lemon Trees: Hands-down - this was the best meal we ate during our ENTIRE trip to Italy! The entire restaurant is situated underneath a grove of lemon trees - so you look up and there are lemons EVERYWHERE hanging off the trees! It is so romantic!! Then the food came out and wow - it was mouth-wateringly delicious, like I said before, the best meal we had the entire trip. We ordered some sort of lemon pasta, gnocchi with marinara sauce and a lemon chicken breast. After dinner, they escort you to an entire room of desserts - filled with gelato, lots of cake and pastries, fresh berries and fresh cream. I thought my stomach was going to pop!!! 
  • Le Camerelle: We ate here on our first night in Capri and all agreed it was delicious! It was close to our hotel, so that was nice too. We ended up ordering a couple of entrees and then we all split them. My favorite thing about this restaurant was the extensive wine menu - it's actually a wine BOOK with hundreds of pages, haha! I tried a rosé that was amazing.  

the view from Monte Solaro
Brandy Melville sweater // Rag and Bone jean shorts // Brixton hat

WHAT TO DO IN CAPRI
  • Take a chairlift to Monte Solaro, the highest point in Capri. It is completely worth it - you get a 360 degree view of the entire island! Try to go on a clear, sunny day if possible (otherwise you may end up in a cloud).
  • La Fontelina Beach ClubHead to this beach club and spend an entire day here laying out under the blue-and-white striped umbrellas. Then go to the restaurant for a lunch of fresh seafood.
  • Hire a boat for a few hours. We had our hotel arrange a private boat tour for us - it was around two hours long and so much fun. The captain took us to a lot of the small grottos and then anchored in the middle of the ocean so that we could lay out and take photos. If the waters are calm enough, your captain can take you to the Blue Grotto - one of the most iconic sea caves in the world.
  • Shop! There's plenty of shopping for everyone on the island of Capri. They have all of the high end brands - Prada, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, etc., and they also have cute little boutiques that are fairly reasonably priced. 
  • Giardini di Augusto: These beautiful botanical gardens show off the wide variety of flora and fauna found in Capri. The gardens also offer a 180 degree view of Capri - perfect for capturing some stunning shots of the island.  
  • Villa San Michele: Our hotel recommended this for sightseeing on one of the cloudier days we spent in Capri - this beautiful villa was once home to the famous Swedish psychiatrist Axel Munthe and was built on the site of a Roman villa. The villa includes some of the original features of the Roman villa and is absolutely breathtaking - the gardens are also stunning and offer some gorgeous views of the Mediterranean. 
More outfits I wore in Capri...



 white camisole (a staple in my closet!) // blue striped skirt (now marked down to $20!!)
Chanel handbag, similar HERE and HERE // Stuart Weitzman sandals in "bambina nappa"

standing outside of our hotel, La Scalinatella

I just uploaded my Capri Travel Diary to YouTube - check it out to see some behind-the-scenes and a full tour of our room at Hotel La Scalinatella. Also be sure to subscribe to  to be notified when more videos go up!


Oh and if you've been to Capri before and have some recommendations, let us all know in the comments!
xoxo

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